Banff & the Rocky Mountaineer
First Passage to the West
I was fortunate to experience the Rocky Mountaineer First Passage to the West journey, which begins in Banff and continues with a spectacular train trip from Lake Louise to Vancouver.
We flew from Brisbane to Calgary via Vancouver and stayed overnight at the Ramada Plaza by Wyndham Calgary Downtown. It was a comfortable place to stay, about three blocks from the restaurant and shopping district. The bed was especially welcome after the long flight. We were tired when we arrived but decided to keep active until later in the day so our body clocks could adjust. Around 3pm we headed out for a bite to eat and found a great place called the Cactus Club Café. After a few refreshments and some food we returned to the hotel and promptly fell asleep.
Banff
The following day we caught the Banff Airporter from Calgary Airport to Banff. The bus takes about one and a half to two hours and drops off at several popular places in Banff. It took us directly to the Fairmont Banff Springs where we met our tour leader before settling in for two nights of luxury.
The view from our room was pretty fantastic. Unfortunately, I came down with a shocking cold and sore throat that kept me in bed on the first day of the tour, meaning I missed a helicopter ride over the mountains surrounding Banff. Thankfully it didn’t take hold as badly as it did for some others on the tour and I was up and about that afternoon. This place was too good to miss. We found the Waldhaus just down the hill from the hotel which served great pub fare, and after a glass or two of prosecco I was feeling fine.
After a relaxing couple of days our tour began in earnest, with suitcases needing to be outside the room by 7:30am and “bums in seats” at 9am for the journey to Lake Louise. This was one of the kinder departure times on the tour.
On the way to Lake Louise we stopped for a gondola ride to the summit of Sulphur Mountain which provided even more photo opportunities.
Lake Louise
We arrived at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise around 12:30pm. Check-in wasn’t until 4pm which was disappointing given we were only staying one night and had been up quite early. I think we all would have appreciated being able to rest and unwind in our rooms. After a bite to eat we went for a walk on the frozen lake and took some photos.
The view from our room was stunning.
While the ice-covered lake was spectacular, I had hoped to see it thawed and glistening. No bears, no moose, and no water. We were “too early in the season” for all of these things. It was something we heard often during this tour. However, we wouldn’t have seen the frozen lake and snow had we come later.
The next morning our bags had to be outside our room at 6:55am with “bums in seats” at 8:25am for the short drive to the station to board the Rocky Mountaineer. I wish someone had told us not to eat breakfast beforehand as we were taken to the dining room on the train soon after boarding.
Rocky Mountaineer
Boarding the train was easy and we were soon underway.
We travelled GoldLeaf, which includes a domed glass roof upstairs providing amazing views and a dedicated dining room downstairs serving gourmet breakfast and lunch. This differs from SilverLeaf which is a single-level carriage with meals served to your seat. Our service attendants were Jeremy and Tana upstairs and Rachel and Anni downstairs.
It was an enjoyable journey through the Rockies watching the world go by and getting to know our travelling companions. There wasn’t much to do other than sit back and relax, besides eat and drink—and there was plenty of that. The first day of the journey took about 12 hours. Below are some photos of the changing landscape.
Kamloops
We stayed overnight at the Sandman Signature Hotel in Kamloops. It was very comfortable and directly across the road from Riverside Park near the junction of the North and South Thompson Rivers. It was nice to go for a walk, stretch our legs, and clear our minds.
Towards Vancouver
The next morning we were up early again—around 7am, I think. This time we left our bags in the room and made our way down to the bus. A whole fleet of buses arrived at the station car park at once, and I thought the process might take hours, but it was very well organised. The bus dropped us directly at the door to our carriage and the train departed soon after.
We had a lovely breakfast before settling in for the rest of the trip to Vancouver. It was another long day of around 12 hours. By the time we arrived in Vancouver, I think we all felt we’d experienced enough train travel for a while. Not that it wasn’t lovely or well worth doing. Thanks to our attendants who helped make the journey fun and educational.
Meet Your Experienced Travel Advisor, Philip
I've always believed that travel isn't just about ticking boxes — it's about meaningful experiences that enrich your life. Born and raised in Darwin, I grew up surrounded by diverse cultures, big skies, and a strong sense of connection — all of which shaped the way I see the world. Read More
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